Ritigala is the partially excavated
ruins of an extensive ancient Buddhist
monastry, sited on a hill standing out
against the flat jungle. Found just off
the Anuradhapura – Habarana road, an
hour's drive from
The Lodge,
whose architecture it inspired, the
ruins are reached by a jungle track.
Unlike the better known world heritage
sites of Sigiriya and Dambulla, Ritigale
in invariably empty with just the gate
keeper and guide present. Its isolated
location and emptiness in comparison
with the other Cultural Triangle sites
can be exceptionally rewarding for those
seeking the less trodden but equally
fascinating ancient sites of
“Undiscovered Sri Lanka”
These are at least 70 caves at Ritigala.
These were prepared for monks around the
1st century BC. Since an inscription in
one of these caves mentions that King
Lanjatissa, the brother of Duttagamini
gifted it, he probably founded the first
monastery at Ritigala.
It is the ruins of this monastery that
King Sena I built for the Pansakulika
monks that the modern pilgrim sees
today. Sometime during the 8th century a
group of monks broke away from the
Abhayagiri and called themselves the
Pansakulikas, that is ‘The Rag-robe
Warers’. Wearing robes made out of rags,
usually shrouds picked up from
cemeteries, is one of the thirteen
ascetic practices (dhutanga) allowed by
the Buddha.
The fact that the Pansakulikas chose to
name themselves after this particular
practice suggests that they were
reformers, probably protesting against
what they a saw as the comfort and
indolence of the city monks. However,
the remains of their monasteries suggest
that they were something more than just
a ‘back to the forest movement’. All of
their monasteries have certain
mysterious features unique in Sri Lankan
monastic architecture; long paved paths
often with roundabouts in them, large
stone-lined and stepped reservoirs and
strangest of all so-called double
platforms. These platforms are made out
of huge slabs of beautifully cut stone
and always occur in twos, joined by a
bridge. They are usually built on
natural rock foundations and are always
aligned in the same direction. Near the
platforms is often found a so-called
urinal stone some of which are
elaborately decorated. In fact, these
‘urinal stones’ are the only things in
Pansakulika monasteries with any
decorations on them at all. Further, no
stupas, image houses, temples or images
have ever been found at Pansakulika
sites.
The ancient site
at Ritigala inspired the architecture of
The Lodge
at Habarana, which has long pathways
along woodland.